Sarah! In! Costa! Rica!

Weekend trip to Suichang. The world is moving too fast for me to catch up. 

Urban migration, the extinction of village life, people move down from the mountains, leaving ruins in their wake, this is what I imagine to world to have looked like when the mayans went wherever they went to, trash and possessions left behind in a messy trail, proof of humans, lingering body heat, only one family left now in the mountains.

Everyone else trickling down to the village, then the city. There are no young people here, they’ve all gone to city, this is the sound of a civilization crumbling, this ancient way of life, of knowing the earth intimately, following the seasons. There are no jobs in the village, the price the government pays to keep them living must be paid by productivity, but there is none of that here, only the old theater in the center of town, the rows of seats scattered and broken like front teeth kicked in, the old women inside the warm wooden belly of the stage, stringing together plastic flowers into garlands that will surely be sent to America to be sold for next to nothing. Everyone is fleeing towards the cities, they want to trade in their standard of living; shift from water thermoses to cell phones (shou ji), from rice to bread, from raincoats to nike shoes; material things only breed more desire for material things, more and more, western toilets, showers, the fancy cars flooding the streets of Hangzhou.

The cities are all industrial, are half-developed buildings with gaping window mouths, reverse ghost towns, hungry for people to come and fill them with heat. Piles of cinderblock, roof shingles, rubbish. Where do you find for water for all these people? And food? And energy to keep them dry and warm in this cold rain, the winter that comes so fast the leaves all die at once over night, quick change, the way history shifts her feet without warning. 

Ahhh. Heredia.

Haven’t been good at updating this, but will try more this semester.

It’s lovely to be back in Costa Rica. My host mother still feeds me too much. My host brother still convinces me of terrible and silly things (such as telling me that we are eating goat meat for dinner, the worst part being that I will always believe him). The language barrier is still here, waiting patiently for me. Oh, and also sunburns. Those are here too. A quick summary on what I’ve learned so far this semester. 

When telling my host mother that someone lives BEHIND (atras) the store, I calmly explained to her that he lives IN THE BEHIND (tracero). Lesson here. Learn the words before you use them. The Spanish language is a lush breeding ground for Sarah Making Mistakes.

While traveling with my family, we met some fellow travelers from New York. My mother said something embarassing and I flushed my normal red and they tried consoling me in their broken Spanish: “Ay, Sarah. Don’t worry. Tu mama es cool-o.” Which literally means “your mom is ass.” Lesson here. Adding an “o” to words does not suddenly transform them into the word you’re loo9king for. Don’t do it.

Hope all of you are having lovely beginning-of-semesters! Chao.

Photos courtesy of Stephanie Roe.

Ahhh, language barrier, how I love you.

Quick overview of the last few weeks:

For Service Learnin’ week, six other students and I went to live on Playa Buena Vista to learn about turtles, environmental protection at a local level, and playing soccer on the beach with the prettiest ticos we had ever met. Good work, good life lessons, good fun. Very exhausting. 

When we got back there was a lot of work to be done, essay-writing and such, but I came to the stunning realization that I am excited to write about everything! In the last two weeks, I have had four papers/drafts due; 1. how globalization has affected political prisoners, 2. translators (specifically of poetry) responsibility; should they stay true to the literal meaning or the emotional/cultural meaning? 3. neruda’s brilliant approach to mixing the political and personal in his poetry and how we should aim to write/live with a balance of these things, and 4. the link between poverty and environmental crises and possible solutions. Hurrah for interesting essays!

Last week I discovered that “calzone,” the most delicious, juicy, fattening lunch ever for only two dollars at a local pizza parlor, also means “women’s underwear” in Spanish. So when I returned home one day and proudly proclaimed to my mother that I had eaten a “huge, delicious calzone” today for lunch, I was met by a fifteen-minute laughing fit by my host mom and brother. Oh gosh, my life is silly and quite full of adventure.

Off to Panama for two weeks on Monday. It could not be more of a relief.

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Got home from service learning week yesterday, helpin out turtles in samara, on the pacific side. more on that later. but for now, fun anecdote.

Okay, so in spanish, “piernas” means ‘legs’ and “piedras” means ‘stones.’ And I came home from the beach last weekend and casually mentioned to my host mother that “mis piedras duelen,” in english that “my stones hurt.” And she was like “what?!” (except in Spanish because, well you know, that’s what they speak here) and explained to me the difference between the words and now I will never ever forget. The end.

“Our Visit to the Dole Banana Plantation on the Day Obama Won the Nobel Peace Prize”
In Denver, the leaves are all dying, or dead now.
I miss the way we know it is time to bury ourselves for the winter,
to sleep until the snow leaves.

Here, in Sarapiqui, everything is green      
so the threat of death is subtle,
you have to find it yourself, throw off the thick sheet of humid air
and breathe it in, the slick, rotting stench of
death in a warmer climate.

We watch rows of bananas pass by
through the bus window-
here we will witness colonialism,
        the skeleton of slavery      
raw and bitter to the senses,      
a shock to our first world misconceptions-
we have known about these evils all along,
but when we see them,
(the worker’s faces gnarled by exhaustion)
it is a different kind of sadness,
a consuming passion we cannot read about,
only discover.
I thought it was unfair
that we could escape back to the air-conditioned bus,
back to the luxury of our expensive educations,
while they are still trapped in this colonial cage,
posing like exotic animals for tourists
eager to see “real poverty”
to bring back a souvenir,      
when the most memorable part of their day      
will probably be the river rafting.
Most of us
won’t save the world
(like we say we will)

but it is in us now,
this violent desire to
do something,
this animal howling
in the cage of my conscience
as if compassion were an instinct
equal in power to survival.
Most of us won’t change the world
the way we think we want to
but there is no way for us to leave this place
without being changed.

“Our Visit to the Dole Banana Plantation on the Day Obama Won the Nobel Peace Prize”
In Denver, the leaves are all dying, or dead now.
I miss the way we know it is time to bury ourselves for the winter,
to sleep until the snow leaves.

Here, in Sarapiqui, everything is green      
so the threat of death is subtle,
you have to find it yourself, throw off the thick sheet of humid air
and breathe it in, the slick, rotting stench of
death in a warmer climate.

We watch rows of bananas pass by
through the bus window-
here we will witness colonialism,
        the skeleton of slavery      
raw and bitter to the senses,      
a shock to our first world misconceptions-
we have known about these evils all along,
but when we see them,
(the worker’s faces gnarled by exhaustion)
it is a different kind of sadness,
a consuming passion we cannot read about,
only discover.

I thought it was unfair
that we could escape back to the air-conditioned bus,
back to the luxury of our expensive educations,
while they are still trapped in this colonial cage,
posing like exotic animals for tourists
eager to see “real poverty”
to bring back a souvenir,      
when the most memorable part of their day      
will probably be the river rafting.
Most of us
won’t save the world
(like we say we will)

but it is in us now,
this violent desire to
do something,
this animal howling
in the cage of my conscience

as if compassion were an instinct
equal in power to survival.

Most of us won’t change the world
the way we think we want to
but there is no way for us to leave this place
without being changed.

quick crash course in costa rican slang:

que chiva!-how cool!

(also, “tuanies”)

que asco-how gross!

que raro-how weird!

amigos con derechos-friends with benefits

soy una asalta cuna-I am a craddlerobber

more to come…

estoy aprendieno muchas cosas. ciao.

FRESHMAN FIFTEEN

I eat so much here. Pica de gallo, delicious casadas, yesterday I had giant calzone for like two bucks. Oh yes, and breakfast is HUGE. So they always talk about the mandatory Freshman Fifteen, yeah? They always say it happens to everyone and yada yada yada.

Unfortunately, Costa Rica runs on the metric system. Entonces, if the phrase is still “freshman fifteen,” then that’s like thirty three pounds. Shit.

Why hello there, Costa Rica/college!

As of a few days ago, I’ve been here for a month. It is lovely. School is fantastic, Heredia is interesting, my host family is wonderful…

I’m living with a Jewish family about a 40 minute walk away from my school. There is Oliva (my mom), Dani (my 16 year old brother), Ariel (an older brother) and Samantha (Ariel’s 3 year old daughter). There is much singing and dancing and general silliness in my house. Whenever bad happens, anything, we say “es culpa de Dani”-it’s Dani’s fault.

This weekend we went into San Jose to see a high school dance competition. Among other amazing and bizarre things, there was a dance condemning domestic abuse. This seemed like a reasonable idea until THEY BEGAN CHAIR DANCING TO BEYONCE’S “all my single ladies.” WHO THOUGHT THIS WOULD BE OKAY TO DO. Crazy things here, I’m tellin ya.

The Spanish is going all right. Stayed tuned, next post will be a crash course in Costa Rican slang…

Ciao.